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Narcissus (Daffodil) |
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March Gardening
Tips |
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March gardening chores include fertilizing shrubs
and trees that were neglected in February . . . >>>read the
article
| UT Gardens' Plant of the Month:
Daffodil
by Dr.
Susan Hamilton
Few
garden plants give as much pleasure with as little effort as
daffodils. Daffodil, narcissus or jonquil? Much confusion has
existed over the proper name for these plants. Actually, both
daffodil and narcissus are correct. Narcissus is the correct
botanical name. Known as the "poet's flower," Narcissus is
named after the mythological Grecian youth who was so
captivated by his own beauty that he turned into a narcissus
flower.
Daffodils
are easy to grow. You can pretty much plant them and forget
them. They blossom freely year after year with a minimum of
maintenance and actually multiply in numbers over the seasons.
With good drainage they thrive in most soils, although they
prefer a medium-heavy loam. Bulbs planted in poorly drained
locations become weakened, fail to flower and often develop
bulb rot. Bulbs in locations that remain moist during summer
rot easily. If drainage cannot be improved, raised beds should
be built.
Daffodils
must have sunlight to continue to flower year after year.
Since much of their growth is completed before trees fully
leaf out, they may be grown beneath trees. In such locations,
they may need additional water and fertilizer to compete with
tree roots. Plant them where they get at least a half day of
sunlight. Avoid the north sides of buildings.
Where
should you plant daffodils? They are suitable for a variety of
locations including the shrub or perennial borders, among
groundcovers, along roadsides, open fields and meadows, and
interplanted with pansies and snapdragons in outdoor
containers. They are especially suitable for planting in front
of evergreens that provide background. For daffodils to make
the most impact, you should plant dozens -- even hundreds --
of bulbs in a single planting. They should be planted in
groups of three to a dozen bulbs of one variety for the best
effect.
When
should you plant daffodils? If you haven’t already planted
your daffodils, you may have to forego them in your yard this
season. As spring-flowering bulbs, daffodils must be planted
in the fall. The bulbs require time to develop a good root
system before cold weather sets in and the soil freezes so for
this reason, planting before the end of November is generally
best.
How
should you feed daffodils? Daffodils do not require heavy
fertilization. When preparing planting beds, incorporate from
2 to 3 pounds of a complete garden fertilizer such as a 5-10-5
into100 square feet of soil. Packaged bulb food is convenient
to use, and it can either be soil incorporated or applied over
the soil surface after planting. Never place fertilizer
directly in the bottom of the hole. A high fertilizer
concentration can kill newly emerging roots and promote rot.
Shy away from using organic fertilizer such as bonemeal when
planting bulbs as it can attract rodents. For established
plantings, apply fertilizer in the fall over the soil surface
to give the bulbs a boost as they develop their new roots.
How
should you care for daffodils after flowering? After flowering
the leaves manufacture the food that is stored in the bulb and
helps produce flowers the following year. The longer the
foliage lasts, the better will be the blooms the following
year. The foliage should not be cut until it dies down
naturally. Tying the leaves together cuts down the amount of
light they receive and reduces food production. When planted
in borders, mix daffodils with daylilies, hostas, ferns,
pansies, snapdragons or other plants that partially hide the
foliage but still allow it to manufacture food for the bulb.
Flower heads should be promptly removed to prevent seed
production.
Do you
need to dig and divide your bulbs? If bulbs have not been
planted too close together, daffodils need digging only about
every 5 to10 years. Usually, when flowering is reduced or
flower size becomes smaller, the time for digging and dividing
has come. Dig the bulbs while the foliage is dying and can
still be seen so bulbs can be located. A spading fork is best
to prevent bruising. Do not let bulbs lie in the hot sun after
they have been dug. Remove all loose soil and allow bulbs to
dry in shallow trays, onion sacks or old nylon stockings.
Never pile up bulbs while drying or those on the inner part of
the pile will be ruined. Allow bulbs to dry in a cool,
well-ventilated place for several weeks. Discard any that rot.
After bulbs are dry, the "splits" may be removed from the
mother bulb, provided they can be separated easily. Remove
old, dried skins and roots. After division, place them in a
cool, dry location in shallow trays or porous sacks until
planting time in the fall. Burlap sacks do not give enough
ventilation.
How do
you choose daffodils? The genus Narcissus is divided into 12
distinct divisions by flower type with more than 70 species
and 25,000 cultivars. In addition, daffodils are classified as
to when they bloom, either early, mid-season or late-season.
Because daffodil blooms last two to three weeks, you can
extend the blooming season by judicious selection of varieties
from each grouping. If you didn't choose daffodils last fall
for this spring's bloom, begin now to plan for next year.
Select planting sites in advance, so you will be ready when
planting time comes this fall.
The
daffodils are in bloom this month at the University of
Tennessee Gardens in Knoxville, and you can also enjoy many
other plants including Snow Drops, one of the first bulbs to
bloom in late winter/early spring, and Jasmine, one of the
first shrubs to bloom in late winter/early spring. The pansy
and viola trials are blooming profusely now and many of our
fall through spring containers are full of color as well.
Several magnolia species and our forsythia have also put on
their spring attire.
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