Narcissus (Daffodil)
 

 
March Gardening Tips
 


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UT Gardens' Plant of the Month: Daffodil

by Dr. Susan Hamilton

Few garden plants give as much pleasure with as little effort as daffodils. Daffodil, narcissus or jonquil? Much confusion has existed over the proper name for these plants. Actually, both daffodil and narcissus are correct. Narcissus is the correct botanical name. Known as the "poet's flower," Narcissus is named after the mythological Grecian youth who was so captivated by his own beauty that he turned into a narcissus flower.

Daffodils are easy to grow. You can pretty much plant them and forget them. They blossom freely year after year with a minimum of maintenance and actually multiply in numbers over the seasons. With good drainage they thrive in most soils, although they prefer a medium-heavy loam. Bulbs planted in poorly drained locations become weakened, fail to flower and often develop bulb rot. Bulbs in locations that remain moist during summer rot easily. If drainage cannot be improved, raised beds should be built.

Daffodils must have sunlight to continue to flower year after year. Since much of their growth is completed before trees fully leaf out, they may be grown beneath trees. In such locations, they may need additional water and fertilizer to compete with tree roots. Plant them where they get at least a half day of sunlight. Avoid the north sides of buildings.

Where should you plant daffodils? They are suitable for a variety of locations including the shrub or perennial borders, among groundcovers, along roadsides, open fields and meadows, and interplanted with pansies and snapdragons in outdoor containers. They are especially suitable for planting in front of evergreens that provide background. For daffodils to make the most impact, you should plant dozens -- even hundreds -- of bulbs in a single planting. They should be planted in groups of three to a dozen bulbs of one variety for the best effect.

When should you plant daffodils? If you haven’t already planted your daffodils, you may have to forego them in your yard this season. As spring-flowering bulbs, daffodils must be planted in the fall. The bulbs require time to develop a good root system before cold weather sets in and the soil freezes so for this reason, planting before the end of November is generally best.

How should you feed daffodils? Daffodils do not require heavy fertilization. When preparing planting beds, incorporate from 2 to 3 pounds of a complete garden fertilizer such as a 5-10-5 into100 square feet of soil. Packaged bulb food is convenient to use, and it can either be soil incorporated or applied over the soil surface after planting. Never place fertilizer directly in the bottom of the hole. A high fertilizer concentration can kill newly emerging roots and promote rot. Shy away from using organic fertilizer such as bonemeal when planting bulbs as it can attract rodents. For established plantings, apply fertilizer in the fall over the soil surface to give the bulbs a boost as they develop their new roots.

How should you care for daffodils after flowering? After flowering the leaves manufacture the food that is stored in the bulb and helps produce flowers the following year. The longer the foliage lasts, the better will be the blooms the following year. The foliage should not be cut until it dies down naturally. Tying the leaves together cuts down the amount of light they receive and reduces food production. When planted in borders, mix daffodils with daylilies, hostas, ferns, pansies, snapdragons or other plants that partially hide the foliage but still allow it to manufacture food for the bulb. Flower heads should be promptly removed to prevent seed production.

Do you need to dig and divide your bulbs? If bulbs have not been planted too close together, daffodils need digging only about every 5 to10 years. Usually, when flowering is reduced or flower size becomes smaller, the time for digging and dividing has come. Dig the bulbs while the foliage is dying and can still be seen so bulbs can be located. A spading fork is best to prevent bruising. Do not let bulbs lie in the hot sun after they have been dug. Remove all loose soil and allow bulbs to dry in shallow trays, onion sacks or old nylon stockings. Never pile up bulbs while drying or those on the inner part of the pile will be ruined. Allow bulbs to dry in a cool, well-ventilated place for several weeks. Discard any that rot. After bulbs are dry, the "splits" may be removed from the mother bulb, provided they can be separated easily. Remove old, dried skins and roots. After division, place them in a cool, dry location in shallow trays or porous sacks until planting time in the fall. Burlap sacks do not give enough ventilation.

How do you choose daffodils? The genus Narcissus is divided into 12 distinct divisions by flower type with more than 70 species and 25,000 cultivars. In addition, daffodils are classified as to when they bloom, either early, mid-season or late-season. Because daffodil blooms last two to three weeks, you can extend the blooming season by judicious selection of varieties from each grouping. If you didn't choose daffodils last fall for this spring's bloom, begin now to plan for next year. Select planting sites in advance, so you will be ready when planting time comes this fall.

The daffodils are in bloom this month at the University of Tennessee Gardens in Knoxville, and you can also enjoy many other plants including Snow Drops, one of the first bulbs to bloom in late winter/early spring, and Jasmine, one of the first shrubs to bloom in late winter/early spring. The pansy and viola trials are blooming profusely now and many of our fall through spring containers are full of color as well. Several magnolia species and our forsythia have also put on their spring attire.

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Dr. Susan Hamilton is an associate professor of ornamental horticulture in the University of Tennessee Department of Plant Sciences and director of the UT Gardens. The UT Gardens are located on Neyland Drive in Knoxville. They are open seven days a week during daylight hours.